I recently saw a YouTube video with a finish that was highly recommended for tool handles (and any wood used outdoors) that contained pine tar. It was a mixture of approximately 1/6 pure (creosote free) pine tar, 1/6 mineral spirits (or turpentine), 1/2 boiled linseed oil, and 1/6 beeswax (small bean-sized pellets of beeswax added to the heated mixture). After heating over low heat and mixing until all ingredients were incorporated, the mixture was cooled to room temperature and looked like a very thick but malleable paste. It provided a light stain that brought out the grain but wasn't too dark. I suppose one could increase the amount of pine tar for a darker stain. I read other posts extolling the virtures of incorporating pine tar in finishes because of it's ability to repel insects and mold. Has anyone used something like this as a finish? So far I've used Watco Teak Oil and Homer Formby's Tung oil varnish (separate finishes on different sticks). I used several coats of boiled linseed oil to finish a cedar walking stick I made years ago.
Suggestions on a pine tar finish?
Posted 02 June 2016 - 03:21 AM
For me, it's about personal preferences, the wood, the stick's style, how and where the stick will be used, etc. I have fun experimenting. I like the ease of applying and touching up 100% tung oil, and for really sharp-looking sticks with beautiful wood colors and grains I like the gloss marine spar varnish.
If you don't try it, you'll never know. You can use a scrap first to see whether you'd like it.
Posted 02 June 2016 - 06:58 AM
As Cas14 I stick with Tung oil, dries fine and never leaves a tacky finish.
Posted 02 June 2016 - 01:09 PM
I've used Watco Teak and plain Tung oil for for most of my sticks. Been happy w. them. Water resistant, and absorbed into the wood so no surface scuffing like varnishes.
Haven't uses pine tar. I had only ever heard of it for ship building. So I looked it up. By itself, it tends to be sticky. Best used on woods with open pores, which it fills and seals. Highly aromatic, which might be a negative. I used some wood stabilizer that was made from cedar, and the wood needed to air out for 6 months so the aroma wasn't too strong for the stick to be in the house.
Might be good for treating the bottom inches of a stick to keep water and muck, etc from penetrating.
Posted 02 June 2016 - 01:22 PM
Posted 02 June 2016 - 09:01 PM
That finish should be ideal for a wading stick
But I just use Danish oil on mine
the old saying is
coat once a day for a week
once a week for a month
once a month for a year
then once per year
That's if you have the patience
I just give mine about 5 coats of Danish oil and for personnel use 1 at the beginning of spring then at the beging of autumn
Posted 03 June 2016 - 04:15 AM
Thanks all for the replies. I'll post results if I try this combination. I haven't seen pure tung oil locally, but I've only looked in two hardware stores. I've read that it was a really good finish but takes a long time to dry aftter applicvation. Cobalt, your old saying "coat once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year,then once per year" made me grin. I confess that my patience woulnd't go that far.
- cobalt likes this
Posted 03 June 2016 - 02:10 PM
Posted 03 June 2016 - 10:00 PM
its not just the pine thats flamable the smell isnt to clever
got to agree about the time spent on treating shanks most people don't
Posted 04 June 2016 - 11:22 AM
Looks like a very old school type of finish. I don't have any direct experience with pine tar either.
I keep an electric hot plate in my shop for messy jobs that I don't want to do in the kitchen. A safer way to heat the mixture would be a crock pot. If you don't already have one you don't care abut, thrift stores will usually have them.
Edited by Rodney, 04 June 2016 - 11:23 AM.
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