# Greyhound



## Gloops

Hi all,

The spaniel has had to go on the back burner, just had a request for a stick with a greyhound topper for a Birthday present, so will try to post as much of the life of a stick as I can if you are interested.

When doing a dog head topper reference photos of the dog for colour unusual markings are invaluable, but the basic head shape is usually common, so when at car boot, garage sales and markets I specifically look for the Leonardo collection of dog ornaments and have picked numerous ons up on my travels, see pic. of grehound -









this model helps me in 2 ways

first I photograph the head -side view-top view-front and back

these are imported int Sketchbook Pro app on mi iPad and manipulated and printed to give me the pattern for sticking to my block.









Now to cut the blank from the block on the bandsaw:-

































Blank cut ---To be continued


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## CV3

Nice presintaion Goolps. Look forward to seeing it develop.


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## cobalt

certainly saves a lot of work with the chisels working this way. Always good to have the masking tape handy

well presented gloop I work in a similar fashion but don't always tape it back together which does cause more work


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## Gloops

When band sawing the block I don't take the cuts through to completion, leave approx 3mm 1/8" this way having cut the side profile it is still a block I add the tape more for safety than necessity, it is only on the second plan view cut that you cut completely thro'.

just needs a little planning of the first cuts so as to keep the block steady and safe for second cut.

I sometimes cut the volume under the throat out but leave 6mm 1/4" base plate this just reduces the amount of material to cut when swapping to plan view especially if using a hard wood.


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## Gloops

cobalt said:


> certainly saves a lot of work with the chisels working this way. Always good to have the masking tape handy
> 
> well presented gloop I work in a similar fashion but don't always tape it back together which does cause more work


I try not to completely cut thro' but leave approx 3mm 1/8" still attached, tape it more for safety so I don't have to hold it to prevent it opening up while cutting the other view, just needs abit of thought before cutting.


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## MJC4

great progress pics. it will be fun to follow to completion and I always learn something along the way


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## Gloops

Managed time at the bench yesterday, a little more progres:



























The first pic. shows using the cut off waste from cutting out the pattern

The second advantage of having the model dog is that I can use my proportional dividers to upscale from the model to my carving (can also be used to downscale).

This helps to maintain the correct ratio's of the anatomy if the ratio's are right it will look righrt















The proportional have a adjustable pivot point so that a specific size ratio between the two ends can be set - avaluable tool in carving.


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## cobalt

nicely done .I also use dividers never thought to mention them a big asset .


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## Gloops

Greyhound a bit more profiling rond eye ,snout area . Studding fitted and shank drilled and top 5mm cut off and mounted at the shank joint to give me a guide for reducing the neck to.


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## CV3

Well done Gloops. I also us the dividers a lot. As can be seen in your picture the help us keep proper proportions I and not thought of sharing either. Glad you showed them.


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## Whiteroselad

Lovely work, I am looking forwards to the next stages. N.


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## Gloops

cobalt said:


> nicely done .I also use dividers never thought to mention them a big asset .


Hi Cobalt , did'nt realise you were a user of "Proportional Dividers", mine are a throwback from my days on a drawing board before calculators and computers, invaluable in producing scale drawings, and resurrected to use in my carving for up/down scaling from models,pictures etc. all carvers should have a set.


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## cobalt

nowerdays i tend to draw freehand then make a templet from the drawings but just use the dividers to check measurements like eyes etc its useful for aligning things up a and checking thickness of the top of the heads to centre of heads length of beaks etc. of waterfowl

Biggest problem is getting good reference materials looking down on the top of head and a full front and good side views.

I do have a 2 exceptional books now for reference which gives front side top and upper views of the beaks etc. and contains something like 20 different species both male and female


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## Gloops

cobalt said:


> nowerdays i tend to draw freehand then make a templet from the drawings but just use the dividers to check measurements like eyes etc its useful for aligning things up a and checking thickness of the top of the heads to centre of heads length of beaks etc. of waterfowl
> 
> Biggest problem is getting good reference materials looking down on the top of head and a full front and good side views.
> 
> I do have a 2 exceptional books now for reference which gives front side top and upper views of the beaks etc. and contains something like 20 different species both male and female


Which books do you have, as you say top views are difficult to find thats why I collect models/ornaments to use as maquets.

re the dividers are we talking about the same thing proportional dividers are primarily used for scaling, they are double ended with an adjustable center pivot so that the ends can be set to give exact scale ratio's i.e. 1:1 2:1 3:1 or any scale in between. Once they have been set you measure the maquet with one end and the other end is then the up or down scale for your carving.

See attached pic. these are currently set for my greyhound whic is upscaled frof my model at aratio of 1:2 ie the model is 1 and my carving is twice thew size.















This way I measure the model with narrow end flip over and transfer directly to carving, one set, all features can be transferred between model and carving.


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## cobalt

they look like a very good quality set of instiments much better quality than mine .

I have been looking for mine put them down somewhere cant find them to photo hope I haven't thrown them out with rubbish

The books I mentioned are "Decorative Decoy Carvers ultimate painting and pattern guide " by Bruce Burk Published by Fox Chapel Publishing.

Think theses are the best books I have seen on the subject. It gives the full pattern's of the ducks both male and female life size.

The painting advice doesn't work for me as I use a different type of paint and its based on a American product

series one book is about dabbling and whistling ducks and has 21 patterns in both of male and female ducks

series two is based on diving ducks and has 21 patterns in it again both male and female .The paper is very good quality and its ring bound

There isn't any carving instructions just patterns with painting guide some of the patterns have the heads in several different positions which is handy. the illustrations some are coloured and of a very good quality even gives advice and patterns of the underside of the beak.

I got them of Amazon for a very good price don't know if you can still get them but I think they where very good value .and gives useful decorating tips.

I certainly recommend them to anyone interested in carving decoys or just the heads for toppers I will try to post pictures when I find the camera.


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## Gloops

cobalt said:


> they look like a very good quality set of instiments much better quality than mine .
> 
> I have been looking for mine put them down somewhere cant find them to photo hope I haven't thrown them out with rubbish
> 
> The books I mentioned are "Decorative Decoy Carvers ultimate painting and pattern guide " by Bruce Burk Published by Fox Chapel Publishing.
> 
> Think theses are the best books I have seen on the subject. It gives the full pattern's of the ducks both male and female life size.
> 
> The painting advice doesn't work for me as I use a different type of paint and its based on a American product
> 
> series one book is about dabbling and whistling ducks and has 21 patterns in both of male and female ducks
> 
> series two is based on diving ducks and has 21 patterns in it again both male and female .The paper is very good quality and its ring bound
> 
> There isn't any carving instructions just patterns with painting guide some of the patterns have the heads in several different positions which is handy. the illustrations some are coloured and of a very good quality even gives advice and patterns of the underside of the beak.
> 
> I got them of Amazon for a very good price don't know if you can still get them but I think they where very good value .and gives useful decorating tips.
> 
> I certainly recommend them to anyone interested in carving decoys or just the heads for toppers I will try to post pictures when I find the camera.


Thanks for the book info and hope you find your dividers


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## Rodnogdog

Gloops, the greyhound is looking good and I am very interested in you dividers. I have never seem any like those; I'm going to have to look those up.


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## cobalt

a sample of the book i mentioned

hope it is of use .Amazon still.The price has shot up price range from £17 -24


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## Ron T

Gloops, very nicely presented, step-by-step of your carving. I also like your inclusion of the divider, picture and instructions on its use. Thank you.


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## Gloops

Rodnogdog said:


> Gloops, the greyhound is looking good and I am very interested in you dividers. I have never seem any like those; I'm going to have to look those up.


Hi, yes "Proportional Dividers" are invaluable whne working from models and pictures ( I also can scale on my printer which as good for producing patters),

there are plenty on ebay - quality is as usiual dependant on purse strings.


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## Gloops

Managed a couple of hours in the shop today, heres the progress bit of hand sanding in jowl area.


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## cobalt

A typical yorkshire man with the grey hound they are known for keeping them

very nice job will take a pattern of it for future referance


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## Gloops

cobalt said:


> A typical yorkshire man with the grey hound they are known for keeping them
> 
> very nice job will take a pattern of it for future referance


This is my pattern.









PLease feel free to copy, and anyone else who fancies doing one


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## Gloops

A little bit further getting nearer texturing.


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## cobalt

very nice, good to see all round views

texturing can be a time consuming job


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## MJC4

Very nicely done! :thumbsu:


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## Gloops

Ready for texturing,ear detail done finish sanding done.


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## cobalt

are you going to insert glass eyes ? its looking good .


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## Gloops

cobalt said:


> are you going to insert glass eyes ? its looking good .


Yes , eyes on order - 7mm dia dark topaz teddy bear eyes.


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## cobalt

where do you get yours from I get mine from a company in wales .Have to order several pairs at one otherwise the postage is ridiculous


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## CV3

You may need a leash for him. Great detail.


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## Gloops

cobalt said:


> where do you get yours from I get mine from a company in wales .Have to order several pairs at one otherwise the postage is ridiculous


Sound same place, "The Glass Eye Company" Snowdonia.

One of our club members has sourced some from China reasonably price ,won't say cheap until I hve seen them, club night tonight.


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## Gloops

Got the texturing started but now on hold for a few days, off up into north Yorkshire - Northallerton area for a couple of nights in a country hotel , Christmas present from our daughter

View attachment 4720
[attachment=4721:IMG_3811.j


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## Gloops

oop's

don't know what went wrong then


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## cobalt

doing well

what did you use to do it?

have a good time at the hotel North Allerton its a nice place good walking area very pretty


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## CV3

It is not tell we get them shaped that the work starts. Like they say " it's all in the detail"!!


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## Gloops

cobalt said:


> doing well
> what did you use to do it?
> have a good time at the hotel North Allerton its a nice place good walking area very pretty


Good morning, sat in the hotel enjoying life. I use a Flexcut 1mm micro chisel for carving hair on my dogs, I just use the chisel without the handle fitted find it easier as I hold the topper in h and, very therapeutic and I can do it in the house over a bin.


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## cobalt

hope you enjoying the life of riley gloop waited on hand and foot

Got to admit i miss cruising round the canaries having a cappiccino on the decks in the warmth and sun


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## Gloops

Texturing completed, eyes mounted and set, a bit more work on joint prior to paint and final fit to shank


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## CV3

Well done Gloops. Nice hair flow.The eyes look good.


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## cobalt

nice job as always

good to see all view pionts


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## MJC4

Great pics& another good looking piece!


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## Gloops

Painting starte - Eyes and neck area below texturing covered with masking fluid and base coats applied



























Final paint complete and all masking fluid removed


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## cobalt

another good job

I paint free hand hadnt thought about using maskin fliud on a three dimensional surface just tend to go for it.

but it works

do like the all round views you give with the pictures certainly helps .

It will look good on a shank it should give rise to a few comments with the dog fraternity

well done


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## MJC4

Great looking piece once again! He looks like he's ready for a romp on the race track!


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## Gloops

cobalt said:


> another good job
> I paint free hand hadnt thought about using maskin fliud on a three dimensional surface just tend to go for it.
> but it works
> do like the all round views you give with the pictures certainly helps .
> It will look good on a shank it should give rise to a few comments with the dog fraternity
> well done


Whe I started airbrushing grid differing ways to mask overspray found masking fluid to be the best, perfect for the eyes, tried on bare wood and it worked well but the longer it was left on the stronger the adhesion and was proving a bit more difficult to remove, solved it by using an old ink eraser which is harder and more abrasive than std pencil erasers.


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## cobalt

thats worth knowing. the need for masking fluid for airbrushing would be helpful Have used it with brush painting but not on wood had assumed it would work just the same as used on paper

I useually scrap of excessive paint on the eyes with a scapel


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## Gloops

cobalt said:


> thats worth knowing. the need for masking fluid for airbrushing would be helpful Have used it with brush painting but not on wood had assumed it would work just the same as used on paper
> 
> I useually scrap of excessive paint on the eyes with a scapel


Just an afterthought, the masking fluid I use is the blue version available from Art Discount, I found the White Winsor & Newton too thick, the blue is much finer.


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## CV3

Well done Gloops! Carving and paint are great.


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## Gloops

Greyhound now finished and gone to her new master. :-(


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## cobalt

Woner if it will go to the racetrack


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