# Stick Finishes



## MJC4

I was looking through the various craftsmen's work on the site and I see what appears to be a myriad of different finishes. I was wondering what type of finish most use. I myself use a boiled linseed oil/mineral spirit mix if I like the color of the wood and don't want too much tint. Cherry and Red Oak seem to pop with just the boiled linseed oil and a semi gloss or satin polyurethane. Maple and pine IMO seem to look better with some Minwax stains then the polyurethane. Some of you talk about Tung oil, I have never used it, is it similar to BLO? Do you urethane over it? Mark


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## gdenby

I also am working thru finishing sticks. Here's what I have worked thru.

When I started, I just used paste wax as I had for sculpture, but that was not durable enough, and would rub off on hands and gloves, not good. So I tried what I had used for furniture, and cabinetry. Coat(s) of stain, neutral or colored as desired. Light sanding, and then varnish coats, also sanded if needed. I used spar varnish for its durability and UV blocking qualities. I like the look of that, but found that after some use, the varnish around the grip area would become clouded, I suppose from friction and the acids in skin oils.

Reading around here, I picked up some tung oil. I know that many coats of linseed oil, perhaps mixed w. some bees wax also works. But tung oil is used on ship decks, and appears to have really good water resistance. It does dry slowly. I use three coats. I haven't tried using it over stained wood, but have used it over dyed wood, and it is OK. It gives a low-gloss finish.

I've put shellac over the tung, tinted or plain, to add gloss. Looks nice, but shellac is seems too fragile to me.

I've tried to top off with carnauba wax a few times. Extremely durable, gives a gloss finish, but is quite hard to use. Really really tedious when hand buffed. I found that a few seconds under a heat gun on low liquifies it enough that it can be hand rubbed. I will also try a cotton buffing wheel, which may generate enough friction heat to soften the carnauba.


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## cobalt

For shanks i just use danish oil and like gdenby give it about three coats and polish it .Its good for the wood and offers protection.I suppose any oil finish is good but often use boiled linaseed oil myself


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## CV3

Update the pictures better look at the whole stick.


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## CAS14

I most frequently use 100% pure tung oil, but it is expensive. My guess is that it is very similar to boiled linseed oil so far as appearance and utility. I apply as many coats as will adsorb, waiting a good while between applications. I've noticed that heartwood and sapwood often adsorb different amounts. If I apply one too many coats, it will leave a waxy coating. I remove that with 000 or 0000 steel wool.

My sticks are for family and a few old Marines. They are used for hikes in the mountains or woods, and are prone to be scratched up. The oiled finish facilitates easy touch up. I provide a tiny jar of tung oil to my stick recipients. A little goes a long way for touch up purposes. I too like the natural luster and color of most woods when tung oil is applied.


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## Rad

It depends on the stick! A lot of the sticks I do on the lathe I mix a little stain with past wax and apply it right on the lathe while it's turning -- makes a nice finish and is dry quick!


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## gdenby

I've read that teak oil also is really good for outdoors use.


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## cobalt

Think applying the finish on a lathe gives one of the best finishes with the speed causeing a bit of friction must come up well

Teak oil dosnt that have some colour in it ?



Rad said:


> It depends on the stick! A lot of the sticks I do on the lathe I mix a little stain with past wax and apply it right on the lathe while it's turning -- makes a nice finish and is dry quick!


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## gdenby

cobalt said:


> Think applying the finish on a lathe gives one of the best finishes with the speed causeing a bit of friction must come up well
> 
> Teak oil dosnt that have some colour in it ?
> 
> 
> 
> Rad said:
> 
> 
> 
> It depends on the stick! A lot of the sticks I do on the lathe I mix a little stain with past wax and apply it right on the lathe while it's turning -- makes a nice finish and is dry quick!
Click to expand...

I've just been considering using teak oil, but from the images I've seen of finished surfaces, it doesn't appear to add any more yellowish color than tung. Having read that teak is good for denser woods, I'm looking for some to finish the hornbeam stick I've been working on for a long time. The hardest portions of the wood barely accept stain. I'm on my third refinish, and have decided that I will have to accept what I have managed to do. If/when I do another piece of hornbeam, I think the only coloration I will put on it is from wood burning.


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## Rad

gdenby said:


> cobalt said:
> 
> 
> 
> Think applying the finish on a lathe gives one of the best finishes with the speed causeing a bit of friction must come up well
> 
> Teak oil dosnt that have some colour in it ?
> 
> 
> 
> Rad said:
> 
> 
> 
> It depends on the stick! A lot of the sticks I do on the lathe I mix a little stain with past wax and apply it right on the lathe while it's turning -- makes a nice finish and is dry quick!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I've just been considering using teak oil, but from the images I've seen of finished surfaces, it doesn't appear to add any more yellowish color than tung. Having read that teak is good for denser woods, I'm looking for some to finish the hornbeam stick I've been working on for a long time. The hardest portions of the wood barely accept stain. I'm on my third refinish, and have decided that I will have to accept what I have managed to do. If/when I do another piece of hornbeam, I think the only coloration I will put on it is from wood burning.
Click to expand...

There is something to be said for El Natural! Sometimes just a clear or satin finish on wood is the best!


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## cobalt

think your right just a natural finish with a coat of oil for protection always looks good.

most oils just seem to lift the colour depending on the wood.


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## MJC4

How about a wrapping on the grip area of the shaft? Before I started to carve I used to wrap some of the grips with suede leather or jute, I have also seen some with a paracord wrapped handgrip. Although I think a carving or a topper on a walking/hiking stick would be overdone with a wrapping, some might like it and a plain stick with a wrapping IMHO looks pretty sharp. Anyone here do wrappings?

Attached are pics of 2 of my very first sticks. One on left is wrapped with jute one on right wrapped with suede. Suede one is promised to my sister to match one I gave to my niece at Christmas.

Both sticks are stained maple and finished with satin polyurethane.


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## Rad

MJC4: I've never wraped a stick, but some of them do look nice that way -- but I like the carvings and toppers better -- like all things it's just a matter of personal preference.


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## cobalt

They look the part but what happens if they get wet? are they slippery? would it let the wood breath? you must tell us how you get on with them when wet?

i have never wrapped one but always interested in ideas


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## CV3

It as been a number of years sense I rapped a grip on one of my sticks. But the look good and people seem to lick them. It has been mostly a time issue. I can texture the grip faster. When I did rap the grips I used marine cord. I rapped the grip using what is called a "French spiral hitching". You see it on the rails or helms of older boots. It gives more texture to the grip. I added a "Turks Head" to the top and bottom of the rapping. Made a nice looking grip and it last very well.


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## CAS14

CV3 said:


> It as been a number of years sense I rapped a grip on one of my sticks. But the look good and people seem to lick them. It has been mostly a time issue. I can texture the grip faster. When I did rap the grips I used marine cord. I rapped the grip using what is called a "French spiral hitching". You see it on the rails or helms of older boots. It gives more texture to the grip. I added a "Turks Head" to the top and bottom of the rapping. Made a nice looking grip and it last very well.


Is this it? I will try it!

Check out this video on YouTube:






It looks great!


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## CV3

CAS said:


> CV3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> It as been a number of years sense I rapped a grip on one of my sticks. But the look good and people seem to lick them. It has been mostly a time issue. I can texture the grip faster. When I did rap the grips I used marine cord. I rapped the grip using what is called a "French spiral hitching". You see it on the rails or helms of older boots. It gives more texture to the grip. I added a "Turks Head" to the top and bottom of the rapping. Made a nice looking grip and it last very well.
> 
> 
> 
> Is this it? I will try it!
> Check out this video on YouTube:
> 
> 
> 
> It looks great!
Click to expand...

Hi CAS,
Yes that is the french spiral hitching. I would recommend a glove. You need to pull each hitch tight. It can ware on the hand after a bit. You may find it handy to have 6" peace of dowel 1/2 inch or so to push the raps tight to each other . Any small peace of wood will do. As long as your hitch is tight it will stay in place as you do the next. Hope that is of so help.


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## MJC4

Good suggestion CV3 and excellent vid CAS. :thumbsu:

I like the look of that French spiral hitching and will try that next time I wrap one. I like a wrap on the handhold of a smaller diameter (1"-1.25") stick. To me it gives the grip area a little more "beef" in your hand

.

The two I have wrapped in the pics are done with a nail knot. The jute wrap is sealed with polyurethane so dampness I don't think will be a problem. The suede leather, well that's a different story. The stick is finished with polyurethane so I don't think moisture is a problem there, but if the leather gets wet I suppose it might shrink and pop loose? Don't know, but as I am giving it to my sister I can't see her hiking in the rain and if she does though, it'll probably ruin the dyed feather I attached to the wrist strap before the grip wrap comes off. Besides if she ruins the stick no more hand crafted gifts from big brother!


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## Sandywitch327

*I've been trying to figure out how to finish my first walking staff. I wasn't sure if I should just use spar urethane or if I should just use Tung oil or if I could oil and then urethane? Yikes! I love the staff and I'm afraid to take the next step. I don't want to ruin it *

*Any suggestions? After reading everyones comments I was thinking first Tung oil (a few coats) then the spar urethane and then maybe wrapping the grip with suede so the it doesn't get foggy?*

*Feed back will be helpful and appreciated.*


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## cobalt

hi

This is puely a matter of choice and you may get several different answers

I never varnish the shank, this is because varnish chips easily it looks unsightly when it happens and allows water penertration and can turn black around the chipped area if left wet.

i usually give my shanks several coats of danish iol and then oil it occasionaly when needed it works for me.However i never remove the bark of a shank as i use mostly hazel and sweet chestnut.

but any finish oil should do the trick.

The shank i use regularly looks as good as the day i made it,works for me ,.what is the shank made from?


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## MJC4

I have been using a boiled linseed oil mix (cut about 50/50 with mineral spirits) on most of my sticks. I like the look, its cheap and its readily available at most local hardware's.

Sometimes I'll add a bit of Minwax stain to the mix to get a little different color result. The attached pic is of 2 sticks I'm working on now. Both are silver maple. The one on the left is bark on, sanded to 220 grit and then 4 coats of boiled linseed oil rubbed in with 0000 steel wool. The one on the right is debarked and 4 coats of BLO with a touch of golden oak stain also rubbed in with steel wool. I like to finish my sticks with Satin spar urethane. I like the bit of extra sheen and protection spar urethane provides.

The hand grip: I have left some plain, done some with suede and some with jute. I have also started to experiment with paracord. Great thing about stick making is on the next one you can always try something different!


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## gdenby

Sandywitch327 said:


> *I've been trying to figure out how to finish my first walking staff. I wasn't sure if I should just use spar urethane or if I should just use Tung oil or if I could oil and then urethane? Yikes! I love the staff and I'm afraid to take the next step. I don't want to ruin it *
> 
> *Any suggestions? After reading everyones comments I was thinking first Tung oil (a few coats) then the spar urethane and then maybe wrapping the grip with suede so the it doesn't get foggy?*
> 
> *Feed back will be helpful and appreciated.*


Finishing may as big a topic as carving, maybe more so. Myself, I've been happier w. oil finishes than what was my standard for furniture and cabinets, stain and varnish. The oil gets into the wood, and slowly creates a polymer that is quite water proof. Usually only adds a yellow tint. FWIW, Tung was first used on Chinese ship decks, so both water and salt resistant. But, more than 3 coats takes weeks, maybe months to dry.

I've been reading some about traditional gun stock finishes. Some of the recipes are long and very involved, but I expect the results on walking sticks would be both good looking and durable.


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## Sandywitch327

*Thanks for the feed back, all good info. I started with the tung oil and the 0000 steal wool. Was planning on using the spar urethan after but I really like the look of the oil so I decided to just oil. I plan on making lots of staffs so will eventual try all three suggestions and any others that follow. Like Steve I think I am well on the way to becoming addicted.*

*The staff I was asking about is in Steve's picture gallery- album labled Sandra's staffs - staff is the one he said looks like leopard print. I'll take newer pics in a few days.*

*Thanks again, Sandra *


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## CAS14

My recently retired Doc's stick is nearly finished except for the finish. It is a "diamond" willow, the second I've done. I embedded his initials too deeply and it took forever to carefully sand the epoxy with extremely fine grits so that the initials are easily visible, yet protected.

On my first willow, I noticed that tung oil sorbed easily into the light colored wood, but little sorbed into the reddish-brown altered areas. I'm considering either Danish oil or teak oil for this, as they are less viscous and ought to penetrate that tighter grained red-brown wood better. If I can find a scrap to experiment on, I should do so.

Frustrated - this needs to be just right.


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## Rad

CAS said:


> My recently retired Doc's stick is nearly finished except for the finish. It is a "diamond" willow, the second I've done. I embedded his initials too deeply and it took forever to carefully sand the epoxy with extremely fine grits so that the initials are easily visible, yet protected.
> On my first willow, I noticed that tung oil sorbed easily into the light colored wood, but little sorbed into the reddish-brown altered areas. I'm considering either Danish oil or teak oil for this, as they are less viscous and ought to penetrate that tighter grained red-brown wood better. If I can find a scrap to experiment on, I should do so.
> Frustrated - this needs to be just right.


Looking forward to seeing pics CAS!


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## CAS14

Rad said:


> CAS said:
> 
> 
> 
> My recently retired Doc's stick is nearly finished except for the finish. It is a "diamond" willow, the second I've done. I embedded his initials too deeply and it took forever to carefully sand the epoxy with extremely fine grits so that the initials are easily visible, yet protected.
> On my first willow, I noticed that tung oil sorbed easily into the light colored wood, but little sorbed into the reddish-brown altered areas. I'm considering either Danish oil or teak oil for this, as they are less viscous and ought to penetrate that tighter grained red-brown wood better. If I can find a scrap to experiment on, I should do so.
> Frustrated - this needs to be just right.
> 
> 
> 
> Looking forward to seeing pics CAS!
Click to expand...

Here is the unfinished top, where the initials are embedded:


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## Rad

Looking good CAS!


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## gdenby

The initials look quite nice. Embedded in the darker wood makes them stand out.


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## MJC4

Good looking piece CAS. I hated it when my doctor retired, its hard to break in a new one.


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## CAS14

MJC4 said:


> Good looking piece CAS. I hated it when my doctor retired, its hard to break in a new one.


Thanks! We met him and his wife for breakfast last week, and that lit a fire for getting this done. He's my age, and like me his eyesight and hearing are beginning to fade. When they have a 30+ year history with you, it is hard to break in a younger one.

We began discussing friends, and we must have 20 or more couples that we've both known over the years. Small world, even in the city.

The light sapwood will remain fairly light, but the dark heartwood or fungus-altered wood will darken a bit with the oil. Hope to finish sanding over this coming weekend. Can't see the little scratches except in good sunlight.


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## Rustic Dave

Back some decades ago in the army I used Boiled Linseed Oil on my M-14 rifle. So back in '88 that's what I used on my first hiking stick, and for some years afterwards I used it on my newer sticks. I usually mixed it with turpentine (tree resin, not mineral).

About two years ago I switched to tung oil, Hope's 100% Pure Tung Oil, and liked it better than the linseed oil. And I also mixed it with turpentine. If you buy tung oil, be aware that much of it being sold is "Tung Oil Finish", and already has other ingredients mixed in with it.

When I oiled a stick occasionally there was no problem with the vapor or oil on my hands. But when I started doing several at a time, my skin would be irritated, and the vapor worried me. Most of my work is done outside, so in the beginning I figured that I'd be okay. As my sticks are "rustic" and only finished with a fine rasp, I like to apply the oil by naked hand so as to feel any rough spots.

Now here is where we go "outta the box"...stick with me...the solution was right in front of me! I have used an excellent leather dressing on my hunting/hiking boots for many years, Montana Pitch-Blend Leather Oil & Conditioner. It is very much "natural", made from amber pine pitch and mink oil. Not only does it not irritate my hands or breathing, it is actually a decent lotion for your hands. When I use it I don't have to wash/scrub my hands...just wipe off the excess and continue on my way. And, course, it does a great job on my sticks, douglas-fir and hickory. I use it straight up, no mixing with turpentine or other drying agents.

Here's a link to the web site: http://www.montanapitchblend.com/all-natural.html

The product will probably darken your wood, so test it on a small area first if you want to keep the stick exactly natural. They also make a soft paste, adding beeswax to the oil. And they made a Leather Oil Soap, which I've used to clean up sticks that got marked up from thumping a tire (that's another story). The scent of the oil is that of soft pine.


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## Steve R.

Nice work CAS!


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## CAS14

Wyvern said:


> Nice work CAS!


Thank you Wyvern! This weekend I opted for 100% pure tung oil. First, I had previously used it on my daughter-in-law's diamond willow stick, and she loves it. I had applied too many coats, or applied them without sufficient time to thoroughly dry, and I had to remove some of the waxy oil buildup with 0000 steel wool, but that wasn't difficult.

He will have interchangeable tips, a hard rubber tip and a stainless steel pointed tip for out in the mountains or woods.

The second coat of tung oil is on, I've been better about waiting half an hour or so and rubbing it vigorously with an old undershirt to remove the excess, and I think I'll just add one more coat in a week or so. I need to polish the brass ferrule a bit. It's about ready to gift, and it will be accompanied by a small bottle of the tung oil and ,maintenance instructions.


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## Rustic Dave

I've researched sticks and finishes for several years with the martial arts folks, who have lots of experience with making and using various staffs. A common recommendation for applying an oil finish is: "Once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year...and then when ever necessary".

And only apply a very little at a time, rubbing it into the wood. Let it "soak" for a few minutes, and then wipe off whatever excess is left. Given that I make only a few stick a year, say, a dozen or two at the most, a few ounces of oil lasts a long time. Therefore the little extra expense for my favorite finish, non-toxic, Montana Pitch Blend, is not a concern.


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## cobalt

I keep looking at the finish of all the sticks here ,most seem to have the bark stripped of them but some good finishes are there, i am hoping to get a simiular finish on the hazel shanks with the bark left on , .the bark does offer some protection and at the moment i just use danish oil to protect them its quick and easy to apply .Lots of you play around with the finish so i am going to try some of your ideas on the hazel bark to see if it will improve the finnish?

I usually apply about 4 coats of danish quite quickly than apply at lest 2 more coats during use ,1 at the beging of the year 1 at the end of the year, any other as and when i think its needed

So will evalute the finish once applied then after useing the stick over a year see what differances i can see?

So hope you guys dont mind pinching your ideas


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## gdenby

To quote from Cobalt from a different thread:

"Hows the french polishing coming along its worth a thread on its own be interested to see results .Always wanted to achieve a mirror like finish usint it mayby one day.

But post som pics i know it can be a slow time consuming job"

Seemed like the response fit better in this thread.

Well, its going to be awhile till I can post picks. I was dubious about the durability of a French polish on something designed to be used outdoors in the damp. Inadvertently, I've proved that.

By yesterday, I had put 6 coats of shellac and rubbed them on the Frenched side of the test piece. It was very smooth to the touch, fairly shiny, and the initial rub with pumice had popped the grain pattern somewhat. The teak oil side had 3 coats, and was quite smooth, and rather yellow. The feel was not quite as nice, being sort of "plasticey" for want of a better term. I rubbed both sides w. a 3M microfiber cleaning cloth. I was surprised to see that the teak oil covering was dulled some. I decided to put 1 more coat on to return the gloss.

But then I left the piece on my bench outside to cure in the hot sun.

Didn't remember it till I heard the clap of thunder in the middle of the night.

What I found this morning was that the oiled side showed no damage. There was some dust embedded in the oil coat, so I know to cure it inside where there is less dirt in the air than next to open garden soil on a windy day.

The shellaced side did show some water beading, but when I wiped it down, most of the finish came away. The wood remains rather smooth, very little grain raising, and can be refinished. Evidently the base coat of shellac rubbed w. pumice and oil formed some seal. At least my 1st attempt at French polishing was not very durable. I'll try again, and try putting 1 coat of carnauba wax on at the end.


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## cobalt

I also used shellac..The finish was okay not what i wanted but a start.

The finish was applied to a butler table i made so not left to tthe weather.I used beeswax to polish it but it takes time to build up the finish .

But interesting what you achieved , Was thinking of trying shellac and beeswax to a shank ,but still leaving the bark on ?.French polishing is easily marked but not to bad to polish back but how would it stand to not so gentle use? such as a hiking pole ?


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## CAS14

Rustic Dave said:


> Back some decades ago in the army I used Boiled Linseed Oil on my M-14 rifle.


I remember very clearly the day the armorer stepped off a CH-35 on a mountaintop OP in westernmost Binh Son Province. He took my M-14 and handed me a first generation M-16, before Marines had the chrome plated chambers that minimized jamming.

With the M-14, with a windage adjustment shot, iron sights, I could hit a feral pig in the valley at 1,000 m. Not a chance with the M-16. I was not a happy camper that day in late October, 1967.


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## Steve labonte

MJC4 said:


> I was looking through the various craftsmen's work on the site and I see what appears to be a myriad of different finishes. I was wondering what type of finish most use. I myself use a boiled linseed oil/mineral spirit mix if I like the color of the wood and don't want too much tint. Cherry and Red Oak seem to pop with just the boiled linseed oil and a semi gloss or satin polyurethane. Maple and pine IMO seem to look better with some Minwax stains then the polyurethane. Some of you talk about Tung oil, I have never used it, is it similar to BLO? Do you urethane over it? Mark


Most of the products ound in hardware stores etc. Is not real tung oil, it is usually a poly of some sort with a small amount of tung oil in it, genuine tung oil is a very slow hardening oil finish, I love the stuff and was fortunate enough to live near McBeaths hardwoods in Berkeley CA which carried pure tung oil from different producers,if your ever in the sf bay area you should check out the store, leave your wallet at home though because you will see woods you will have to have and they sell sraps in their scrap bins by the pound, used to be $5 a pound, last time I was there it was 10-40 dollars a pound,they have some increasable woods I don't have the self control to visit the store often when I am in the area, like I said leave your wallets at home, oh yeah tung oil darkens wood somewhat also unlike linseed oil


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## BrooksP

Tens years or so ago I bought this stuff online - I figured if it is good enough for gun stocks out in all weathers then it is good for a stick!


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