# Must-have carving tools



## NightKnight (Dec 23, 2012)

I have noticed that most of the members of the site like doing carving on their walking sticks. So, I wanted to ask what your "must have" carving tools are. The ones you use the most often, and you would miss the most if gone.


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## Lewey (Jan 4, 2013)

I couldn't get by without my Dremel. I also have a high speed rotary engraver from SCM. It's a lot like a dental drill and turns at around 600,000 rpm. This is great for doing detail work. Then there's the old standby mallet and swiss carving tool set. I use this to do the wood spirits then use the engraver to finish up the detail.


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## Sean (Dec 29, 2012)

Bill,

Which Swedish carving brand do you use and like?


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## NightKnight (Dec 23, 2012)

Also, can you give us a link to that engraver? Sounds pretty interesting.


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## CAS14 (Dec 28, 2012)

Lewey said:


> I couldn't get by without my Dremel. I also have a high speed rotary engraver from SCM.


Lewey,

Do you have recommendations for Dremel and SCM models or choices?

Thanks,

Vance


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## Lewey (Jan 4, 2013)

Sorry for the delay in replying back. The carving tools I have have "Swiss Made" stamped on the handle. I don't know the specific brand. They weren't very expensive - around $50. I got them from Woodcrafters.com.

The link to the engraver is http://www.scmsysteminc.com. The one I got is similar to the model 400XS but I got it several years ago. This one turns around 400,000 rpm but I could have sworn the one I bought was supposed to be 600,000. Man, this thing is handy for detail work but it is a little pricey!

I really would love to have one of the Jetstream precision sandblasters but I just can't shell out that kinda cash right now.


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## Lewey (Jan 4, 2013)

CAS said:


> Lewey said:
> 
> 
> > I couldn't get by without my Dremel. I also have a high speed rotary engraver from SCM.
> ...


I have 2 Dremels. One is a model 3000 and I just bought a model 4000 over the holidays. The 3000 is a little easier to get into tight spots. I believe the chuck holder diameter is slight smaller but it's easier to get the tools to the work without the holder getting in the way. The 4000 is pretty nice with adjustable speeds up to around 30,000 RPM. I usually keep one setup with a cutting bit and the other with a sanding drum.


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## CAS14 (Dec 28, 2012)

Thanks Lewey. If I decide to go the powertool route, now I have a better idea how to budget and what to look for.

For now, except for a very small drill press, I'm all hand tools. Sort of like the little bit of stone sculpture I've done, I opted to do it like the Romans and Greeks did, it just takes a lot longer. But maybe down the road I will speed up the process.

Vance


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## Shawn C (Dec 28, 2012)

The "swiss made" tools Lewey referred to are the brand* pFeil*, and are sold exclusively by Woodcraft. these are the ones I also use, for the most part. My mst-have carving tools for carving stxiks specifically are a v-tool, a large veiner gouge, and and assortment of carving knives. The tool I consider most valuable when it comes to working with sticks is a proper vise or clamping system. It is very difficult and frustrating to effectively carve onto a long cylindrical shape without having it clamped in a rock solid position.


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## CAS14 (Dec 28, 2012)

Thanks to your recommendations, I picked up the Swiss tool set at Woodcraft. It's too cold for this wimp to work in the garage as yet, but a clamping system is next on the agenda. I need to figure out something that will work for both slingshots and sticks, but mainly the sticks.

Maybe a valid piece of equipment for the forum is a safe and economical space heater for our work areas! ;-)


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## Lewey (Jan 4, 2013)

Shawn C said:


> The "swiss made" tools Lewey referred to are the brand* pFeil*, and are sold exclusively by Woodcraft. these are the ones I also use, for the most part. My mst-have carving tools for carving stxiks specifically are a v-tool, a large veiner gouge, and and assortment of carving knives. The tool I consider most valuable when it comes to working with sticks is a proper vise or clamping system. It is very difficult and frustrating to effectively carve onto a long cylindrical shape without having it clamped in a rock solid position.


You are absolutely right about the vise or clamping system. When I first got my swiss tool set, I didn't have a vise handy so I sat down in a chair with the cane between my Knees. About 5 minutes later, I'm nursing a 1/4 wide by 1/2 deep gouge in my thigh. I had a working vise the very next day and have never tried the knee vise since.


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## CAS14 (Dec 28, 2012)

Yeah, Lewey, and in my case my wife is not only giving me dirty looks but she would be swinging my other walking stick at me when I'm not looking. This hobby is eating into my rye and cigar budget! But I'm going to acquire a vise or clamping system soon.


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## Shawn C (Dec 28, 2012)

Ha! I have one of those too!

I do have a clamping system that I made. When I get the chance, I will take a few photos and post it.


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## Shawn C (Dec 28, 2012)

Lewey, I winced when I read your injury report. I have done that myself, several times in the past - them swiss tools is sharp! As we get older, we get smarter (hopefully). I have always been on the constant search to come up with more efficient ways to get things done, especially whe there is a vloume of work to complete. Vising has alway been a sticking point for me. I have tried many different systems, and although they are always good for something, I have never been completely satisfied

.

Have you heard of Grip-All Jaws? This gentleman makes these units one by one, by hand, and sells them out. Very good for clamping unusual shapes (great for figure carving), but still not so good for sticks and canes. I actually endorsed the products and did a review on them in Woodcarving Illustrated, and in turn received a unit of each type. I love them for other work, but again, not so good for sticks. We tried a few things, but ehhh.

Check out the site:http://www.gripalljaws.com/

As I mentioned before, I came up with something that suits me well. Simple but effective, and very similar to an old foot-pressure clamp that, I believe, bow makers use...? I am in the office now; when I get home, I will post the image.


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## gdenby (Apr 27, 2013)

To date, I've used all hand tools. Of the 40 odd items I have, the Swedish made Frost's/Mora carving knives, and an ordinary 4-in-hand rasp get the most use. I also use a Japanese spear plane a lot. Not too long ago I found a very nice tool from a place called North Bay Forge. It is a deep bend double edged knife. Extraordinarily sharp, and great for cutting hollows. Also have a Frost's/Mora batoning knife that is great for agressive bark removal.

I have several setts of rasps, rifflers, and scrapers.

I have an Edge Pro Apex sharpening system (initially purchased for kitchen knives) to keep the blades keen.

My little work bench in the basement is not adequate for carving. Cramped space, poor lighting. Will be building a bench in an enclosed porch so I can work with pieces in vices.

Don't remind me about hand cutting. 20 minutes after getting a new piece of osage orange, I was grabbing bandages. My wife gave me a bit of grief about that. I was able to point to an old scar about 1/2" away that I got working on osage a few years before we were married.


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## gdenby (Apr 27, 2013)

Though I might illustrate my basic set. All told, there's maybe $160 worth of equipment. I did start out w. a Stanley folding pocket knife (no longer in production, and the only blade I had was eventually sharpened away), and the rasp. Probably about $20 for both.

Not illustrated are the 30 odd rasps and rifflers. No pic of my draw knife and spoke shave. Lacking a good vise and bench, they have seen almost no use. I do have a drawer full of abrasives, all the way down to some 1200 grit pads (rather pricey) that will take many woods to a gloss finish.

My wife is indulgent. Being retired, she's glad to have me do something that gets me off my duff, and preferably out of the house. So, $20 here, $40 there, not a problem.


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## nameless (Jun 12, 2013)

I can do without anything but my folding pocketknife. I used that for much!

I use a belt grinder for roughing out the basic shapes. A 36 grit belt removes wood (and skin) at light speed!

And just 'trim' from there.

There are some examples floating around here...

happy carving

peace


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## Chiricahua Jack (Jun 23, 2013)

Thinking about useful hand tools I came up with a list of what I can put together from what I have:

Japanese tree saw
Draw knife
Cheese grater
Assortment of knives including 1 Opinel #8 pruning knife
Standard 4 in 1 wood rasp
Several riffler wood rasps (not a full set)
Dental scrapers & scalers
Sanding blocks
Leather/wood combo mallet.


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## CAS14 (Dec 28, 2012)

I made a nice strop for my Swiss knife and pocket knives. A strop device made for my Swiss made chisels, gouges, V-gouges, etc. should arrive any day. On Sunday, I gouged my pinky pretty deeply, but didn't sever a nerve. Tried to hide it from my safety officer (aka wife) but she found the blood on doors, shirt, and elsewhere. "Why didn't you wear your glove?" No good defense.


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## gdenby (Apr 27, 2013)

Chiricahua Jack said:


> Thinking about useful hand tools I came up with a list of what I can put together from what I have:
> 
> Japanese tree saw
> Draw knife
> ...


All good stuff. I have a drawknife, but don't use it much. I don't have a bench yet. I'm in the hold stick w. (gloved) hand, cut w. other. Kinda hard to use a draw knife.

The first thing I added after my carving knife and 4-in-hand were "scrapers." Just some blades from a picture matt cutter. The flat side worked as well as 120 grit paper, the sharp side, as good as 220. And cheaper in the long run. Stanley utility knife blades work too, 'tho the oil on them needs to be removed. Both work better than single edged razors, but it is advisable to add a tape "handle" for gripping.

I do have a few real scrapers, and want a convex shaped one. If I want to accent the dips in the natural contour of a stick, I think it may work better than a gouge,then followed by a rasp, then followed by sand paper.


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## CAS14 (Dec 28, 2012)

Here's my homemade work bench, made from 4"x4" and 2" x 8", 2" x 6", and 2" x 4", mostly, left over lumber.

That sliding clamp in the center works great for holding sticks while using the draw knife or sanding with a rotary sander.


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## Rad (Feb 19, 2013)

CAS said:


> Here's my homemade work bench, made from 4"x4" and 2" x 8", 2" x 6", and 2" x 4", mostly, left over lumber.
> 
> That sliding clamp in the center works great for holding sticks while using the draw knife or sanding with a rotary sander.


How well does the clamp hold? I messed up my left arm awhile back (tore it up inside) and its hard to hold on to those sticks when i'm doing the spiral! I like the space in the top of the bench for holding the stick.


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## CAS14 (Dec 28, 2012)

It's not perfect Rad, but you kinda get the hang of it and I've had few slips. The gaps were fortuitous. I was trying my hand at stone sculpture, which is why I made the bench. The gaps made the rock chips easier to clean off the surface. Now the gaps, as luck would have it, are spaced so that a stick 1 1/2" dia. or larger wedges in nicely. Otherwise it works, just not quite as well. Sometimes I lay a 1" x 1/2" slat in the gap to lay something on.

Sometimes when sanding with the electric sander, I don't even clamp it. I just hold the sander with one hand, the stick with the other, and rotate as needed. Otherwise, the quick release on the clamp doesn't take long to release, move the wood, and re-clamp.

I picked up this clamp and track at Woodcraft, but I'd bet you can find something similar and cheaper at Lowes or some other large hardware store.


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## Chiricahua Jack (Jun 23, 2013)

All good stuff. I have a drawknife, but don't use it much. I don't have a bench yet. I'm in the hold stick w. (gloved) hand, cut w. other. Kinda hard to use a draw knife.

The first thing I added after my carving knife and 4-in-hand were "scrapers." Just some blades from a picture matt cutter. The flat side worked as well as 120 grit paper, the sharp side, as good as 220. And cheaper in the long run. Stanley utility knife blades work too, 'tho the oil on them needs to be removed. Both work better than single edged razors, but it is advisable to add a tape "handle" for gripping.

I do have a few real scrapers, and want a convex shaped one. If I want to accent the dips in the natural contour of a stick, I think it may work better than a gouge,then followed by a rasp, then followed by sand paper.[/quote]

I used the draw knife in the past for peeling poles for tipis. You can remove a lot of material fast; same with the cheese grater but it leaves a very rough surface behind.

I'm a sucker whenever I see small medical or dental tools at an estate sale or garage sale. I have some medical tools that I don't even know what they were for, and probably wouldn't want to know on some of them! A couple of years ago I bought a hand full of dental scalers & picks, and they would be perfect for small delicate work. They are stainless steel of course, and they could probably be touched up a little bit when need be but I'm not sure I could resharpen them very well.

Mora makes some hook knives. You might try one of those to accent the knots and dips.


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## Chiricahua Jack (Jun 23, 2013)

Sorry for the double post. Please delete one.


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## CAS14 (Dec 28, 2012)

Chiricahua Jack said:


> Sorry for the double post. Please delete one.


No problem, it takes about five seconds. ;-)


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## gdenby (Apr 27, 2013)

Chiricahua Jack said:


> Mora makes some hook knives. You might try one of those to accent the knots and dips.


I do have a Mora hook knife. I'm not very happy w. it, unlike the other Mora's I have. It hasn't seen any use since I got the Northbay forge large deep bent knife I mention up-thread. Hand forged, and somewhat expensive, but very hard and keen. The long handle increases the leverage one can get. I've used it to easily scoop hollows in red oak.

The maker says the design follows traditional No. West native carving knives. When I visited the Chicago Field museum a few weeks ago, I noticed that there was a bent, double sided blade in the Tlingit section, and, surprisingly, also in the Iriquois.


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## Chiricahua Jack (Jun 23, 2013)

gdenby said:


> Chiricahua Jack said:
> 
> 
> > Mora makes some hook knives. You might try one of those to accent the knots and dips.
> ...


I don't have the Mora knife. I have only seen it listed in their product line. Thanks for you input!


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## gdenby (Apr 27, 2013)

Chiricahua Jack said:


> gdenby said:
> 
> 
> > Chiricahua Jack said:
> ...


The Mora carving knives are laminated. The razor thin inner core is quite hard steel that takes a fine edge. The softer surrounding metal keeps the core from snapping. As far as I can tell, the Mora spoon knife is not laminated.

The Northbay smith uses a process he call double forging. He says that the method produces a far more durable edge than a single forging followed by grinding the edge.


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## AAAndrew (Jul 19, 2013)

I mentioned in another thread the Shave Pony, a sort of smaller version of a shave horse for those who already have a bench and don't have room for a full horse.

http://www.frontiernet.net/~dmatt/shavepony/

Some day I'll have the room for a full shave horse. That's the only real way to clamp sticks.

I've found that for vertical to near-vertical holding, the wagon vise in my bench works very well. (from when I actually wrote a little blog about my woodworking)


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## Kemjak (Aug 12, 2013)

Wow, I didn't realize that you needed to remove the oil from utility blades. I'm glad I read these postings. I carry a folding utility blade knife all the time, and use it constantly. I was planning on it being my main carving tool.


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## cobalt (Nov 14, 2013)

Like most people here i find rotary tools fixed to a flexi shaft essential along with chisels and good carving knifes.You have a much better range of rotary tools in the US and a lot cheaper than the UK.

For stick making I find a electric paint stripper useful for straightening sticks as long as you dont scortch the wood it just tweeks the stick to ensure its straight so just heat the wood and put in a vice .when it cools it will stay straight.

A good handy tool to have is a carvers vice for carving its like having another hand.

I have 4 rotary tools 1 is a spare they are always ready to use and usually carbide burrs are fitted to at least one and a sanding drum to the otherand the a ceramice grinder is useful particularly when cutting into bark it enbles me to get a good clean finish, very useful if you inlay with gold leaf.


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## cobalt (Nov 14, 2013)

Keep looking at the foredom rotary cutter they look the part,Like the idea of being recersable some times would be hand to get at those difficult plecs when carcing,as not always possible tp go with the grain.

The range of cutters and sanders is good.much better than is available over here.

Must admit i use the rotary cutters a lot.

So how do you find them are they worth the money?

I do have a jap. carving knife think the blades the best one i have used, it dosnt seem to go dullas fast the handles good,but they are pricey


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## cobalt (Nov 14, 2013)

have to do something about my typing, wearing glasses helps , but the keys stick and convinced the keys move


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## cobalt (Nov 14, 2013)

my cheap but effective stropping leather, keeps the tools in good orderr

the green wax in the background is abrasive i just rub some on the leather great finish on the knifes .eliminats so much use on the wet stone


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## cobalt (Nov 14, 2013)

Just got a set of carbide burrs, they all seem to come from china ? have to see what there like suspect not to clever but cheap, not always a good choice.

Got 4 rotary tools rigged up couple fitted with flexi shafts ,need to clear bench and get carving .Sharpend the chisels and carving knifes put a heater in the workshop even cleaned the bandsaw,.trying to finish the drawings and make the templates so nearly ready to go.

got a 8` x2" x 15" plank of rough sawn lime wood so should get about 40- 50 hiking pole toppers out of it. 10 shanks 2yeasr old shanks straightend .Need some danish oil for the shanks and some paints .

Counted the brass ferules about 30 just 10 siver nickel collars and about 6 bone collars .

About ready for the punters for hiking season.

You can be sure that what they want i hav`nt made yet, already someone wants a dragons head fitted to one and another wants a copy ships figurehead from the HMS Victory, think he is asking to much to intricate for a small carving to fit on a hiking pole . would take to long and would need different types of wood but they do look good .Thank goodness for the net saves so much time getting ref material.


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## gdenby (Apr 27, 2013)

I did a search on "ships figurehead from the HMS Victory." I think your client has unrealistic expectations. I agree w. you that the level of detail is too intricate for a small bit of wood. But even if there was a wood that could handle that level of detail, the time it would to carve it would make the price well beyond "princely."

If there was a large market for such an item, the modern approach would be to do a digital scan of the real item. (good luck getting permission) Clean up the data, and then cast a prototype w. a 3-D printer. Use the cast for a mold, and make a small run using a medium that took paints well, and sell those after hand painting at $3000 a piece. Then make about 3000 from cheaper materials, and sell 'em for $30 a piece.


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## cobalt (Nov 14, 2013)

gdenby said:


> I did a search on "ships figurehead from the HMS Victory." I think your client has unrealistic expectations. I agree w. you that the level of detail is too intricate for a small bit of wood. But even if there was a wood that could handle that level of detail, the time it would to carve it would make the price well beyond "princely."
> 
> If there was a large market for such an item, the modern approach would be to do a digital scan of the real item. (good luck getting permission) Clean up the data, and then cast a prototype w. a 3-D printer. Use the cast for a mold, and make a small run using a medium that took paints well, and sell those after hand painting at $3000 a piece. Then make about 3000 from cheaper materials, and sell 'em for $30 a piece.


Your dead right far to much work for a topper although there are some figureheads which would be possable may have a go sometime but enought work at the moment just need some heat and spring to come this dam weather. can`t stand it


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## JJireh (Feb 7, 2013)

Well a lot of those details could be painted instead of carved if you want to just get the frame carved.


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## cobalt (Nov 14, 2013)

they could be i can choose what i want to do lol , and just like carving then paint anyway didnt take to the guy he wanted the earth for pennies just told him i was to busy .

been asked by a friend to do a exhibiyion again , last one we did was over 5years ago , dont think i have enough work to show although i still have some glass pieces i made but barley covered costs last time.

although we did get radio and newspaper cover we didnt get any commisions from it and with the effort it took it wasnt worthwhile.

the exhibiton lasted 4days and covered a bank holiday weekend .there was seven of us displaying about 120 pieces of work .most of it was outdoor and my friend is into kinetic art and made some very large wind driven pieces and was place in a fast flowing stream in the centre of a small market town called horncastle my work was mainly figurative our other friends where couple of painters and a weaver and one in recycled material and one video although we got a lot of publicity at the time nothing came from it , wrong place at the wrong time i think and dam hard work nee to be in a city for that time i think most people thought we where eccentric well my friends are but fun


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## cobalt (Nov 14, 2013)

just got a new set carving chisel from axminster just for small detailed work. mayby get rid of those cheap chisels now? i need the storage space


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## alador (Apr 25, 2013)

Here is a partial list of my carving/shop tools. I don't think I could pick a favorite. It depends on what I'm trying to do.

It does occur to me, looking at this list, that I really should produce something more significant. Oh well, maybe tomorrow, or next year.

4 ft. lathe

band saw

router

drill press

grinder with chain saw wheel

Dremel rotary tools

Home made steamer

set of Pfeil gouges

Flexcut small scorps

Flex cut profile scrapers

Set of rifflers

Several rasps

Flexcut draw knife

Set of chip carving knives

Several small hand planes


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## cobalt (Nov 14, 2013)

Sounds like most of our workshops,and bet you have some hidden gem there.My list is pretty much the same ,but i treasure my band saw it will cut up to 6"" of hardwood and save hours of work .i I would`nt be without my carving mallet its made from ligna vita and it seem that i have to make less effort using it than the other mallets i have,My biggest problem is keeping the place clean and tidy. but as long as i have a good range of carbide burrs in stock and a range of wood to go at its a haven to be in


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## cobalt (Nov 14, 2013)

Theres one piece of kit i like the looks of ,you call it a tennon cutter .The book recomends these for joints for stick making and alike?there pretty pricey but look as tho they do a good job.Its more like a dowel cutter i wouldnt describe it as a tennon .

Just mayby the difference in decriptions from here


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## alador (Apr 25, 2013)

I too have been looking at tenon cutters I just don't know about the tapered shoulder they leave. Maybe it wouldn't be an issue if the hole was tapered also, like with a counter sink. I guess if one used a sleeve at the joint it would be a moot point. I suppose at 100 bucks or more a pop I'm just careful about springing for one. On the other hand, what is cooler than a new tool to play with?


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## cobalt (Nov 14, 2013)

I was wondering about the taper,and yes they are pricey, but i to like my toys

But then it dosnt take long to taper the shank to fit a ferrule so will carry on doing it the normal way ,its not as though i have tight deadlines


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## cobalt (Nov 14, 2013)

Talking of new chisells to play with as the wife would say another new toy?

Storage my old storage shelf or whatever you call it had to go ,

I fixed me neighbours gate well rebuilt it, he got the wood to much so what i didnt use he asked me if my daughter wanted it for her fire a moment of horror nice peice i could use so today its being transformed into a tool rack the new one will hold 33% moret . The rack is made on the slant with the chisel edges pionting in wards making it easy to get the chisel without gashing my hand and easy to see what chisel is where

As the man said this is one i made earler nearly finished


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## cobalt (Nov 14, 2013)

Hoping to finish the tool rack today.Had to babysit the grandaughter.Or as she puts it "ive come to play" and of coarse shes been told dont let your grandad get into mischief ,So no work on anything totally done in pushing roudabouts shopping chasing anything that passes by.I`M BUSHED

So hopefully tommorow but already been told "your going out "


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## cobalt (Nov 14, 2013)

got in the shed ,finished of the chisel rack. manged to tidy up the place a bit ready to go


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## MoroCreek (Feb 13, 2014)

CAS , I have tried to work in my shop for two weeks, but even here in south Arkansas, the weather he's been miserably cold to me. That, and two bouts of ice and snow. I've got one of those Amish cabinet electric heaters, and a small bottle propane heater.... but they couldn't warm up my airish shop. As for the clamping system... I have a 'regular' shop vise, and a Stanley multi-angle vise that I use. My main set of hand carving tools are Fleece, supplemented with a couple of Lee Ferguson knives, Drake gouges, and Dockyard mini gouges. I also use a couple of Dremels, a rechargeable multi-speed, and a flex shaft. I'm wanting to get a pen sander, like I've seen advertised on this site at Home Depot. Has anyone had any experience with a pen sander?

Thanks WSF!


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## gdenby (Apr 27, 2013)

cobalt said:


> got in the shed ,finished of the chisel rack. manged to tidy up the place a bit ready to go


The tilt on the rack is a nice touch. More convenience, and space saving.


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## CV3 (Jan 30, 2014)

Nice tool rack Cobalt. You will enjoy work From that.


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## CAS14 (Dec 28, 2012)

I'm increasingly feeling like a crude amateur! Nice tools and rack Cobalt!

I do have a new "field" tool, to carry instead of the big KA-BAR:

















This was a special run by S&W, orchestrated by a retired Marine.


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## CAS14 (Dec 28, 2012)

MoroCreek said:


> CAS , I have tried to work in my shop for two weeks, but even here in south Arkansas, the weather he's been miserably cold to me. That, and two bouts of ice and snow. I've got one of those Amish cabinet electric heaters, and a small bottle propane heater.... but they couldn't warm up my airish shop. As for the clamping system... I have a 'regular' shop vise, and a Stanley multi-angle vise that I use. My main set of hand carving tools are Fleece, supplemented with a couple of Lee Ferguson knives, Drake gouges, and Dockyard mini gouges. I also use a couple of Dremels, a rechargeable multi-speed, and a flex shaft. I'm wanting to get a pen sander, like I've seen advertised on this site at Home Depot. Has anyone had any experience with a pen sander?
> 
> Thanks WSF!


My "shop" is nothing more than a concrete pad with a small structure enclosed on two sides and open on two sides. Too damn cold here as well the past few months, although the next week will give us some relief.


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## cobalt (Nov 14, 2013)

Had to do something to the workshop space is tight, always trampling sawduct in the house .

Rad you work the best way to suit yourself i dont think i could work with those tools, i`m a bit old fashioned well mayby more than a bit. but if it works for you do it, After all you make some decent contributions to this forumi ,this is what this forum for it all helps people

You must have made some good friends during your time, a lot of repect is shown for the marines ,Any service man active or retired deserves it


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## cobalt (Nov 14, 2013)

Have been looking at those long reach mini carving tools for some tree carving hoping to do.Anyone had experiance of them? The only two i know of is one by proxon and i think the others is abrotech.

If so you opinion would be appreicated?

Would they give a good depth of cut inside a tree where it would be difficult to use a mallet and chisel?


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## CV3 (Jan 30, 2014)

A fellow who dose some tree carving down here made some long handles using ash dowels. He also uses wood turning chisels.


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## cobalt (Nov 14, 2013)

Long handles could be useful. I think that the handles on most chisels are to short anyway these not enought material on them to feel comfortable when you srike it with the mallet and chinnse rubbish you can feel the mallet touch your hand whilst holding it

Found some info on proxon on the amazon site 2 people written review on them both complained of the same problem motor burnt out with no chance of getting it repaired .

Both thougt the machine was to underpowered to do the job so this is not for me


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## cobalt (Nov 14, 2013)

The most boring thing of all health and saftey in the workshop

I always wear a thick leather bib apron when carving along with safty glasses and dust mask when sanding

I certainly wouldnt use the rotary tool without them suprising how good the leather apron is and would recomend it to everyone with the safty glasses althought they are annoying always getting scratched

Hope every one takes it on board its far to easy to be ditsracted when using burrs and sanding drums and can give a very nasty cut . so keep well everyone.

Havnt sliced my fingers yet thank goodness


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## cobalt (Nov 14, 2013)

PIcked up a bargin today new rotary too for$7.2

Already have 2 of them found them to be very good had them nearly 2 years and use them and abuse them so all i need do is fit a flex cable to it


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## CV3 (Jan 30, 2014)

Nice looking tool cobalt. They are nice to have. I also try to focus on safety in the shop. I like a face shield ,like wood tuners use. I wear high impacted prescription eye glasses and the shield takes care of the face and neck. I once had a bur chip off when it hit a nail in some found wood. A bad cut along the chin made the shield my choice.


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## cobalt (Nov 14, 2013)

WHy is it that modern chisels have such a short shaft on them , iI like at lest a 5 inch shaft on my chisels some of then only have a 3.5 inch shaft its a great way of wacking your hand whilst holding the chisel .

most of mine only have a 4.5inch shaft there okay but the old second hand tools have bigger shafts much better.So shopping around for some new shafts to replace the small ones .pity i dont have a lathe.

I am hoping to carve deep into a living tree so its a good excuse to change some shafts think mayby some woodturners shafts would suit>as there always longer


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