# Filling large cracks in sticks



## yaxley

Curious what techniques people use to fill wide, deep cracks in your walking sticks? Generally I don't fill them, but have a stick with some rather severe cracks.


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## cobalt

I`m pleased to say i dont get that problem .probaly limited to the wood shanks i use and season myself .

The use of different woods is larger over there than i have access to , also the approach towards stickmaking is quite different cracks and shanks that are out of true are more acceptable

My own view is very differnt from many here i would discard it


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## rdemler

I used an epoxy enamel resin with color added to fix a crack as an experiment.I think it looked pretty good and a great way to add some color at the same time.


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## yaxley

That came out nice. I have heard of people using automobile body filler and saw a stick where the cracks were filled in with ground turquoise. Just seeking other ideas.

Cracks and imperfections are considered "character" enhancements here in the western US.


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## CV3

Hi yaxley. I rarely fill deep crack in sticks. My experience has been that once they are large and deep it is a structural issue. If they have not dried really well they most likely will continue. I have patched small cracks by carving the crack a bit wider shaping a wedge to fit tight in the the hole or crack, I use Gorilla glue. It expands and has some flexibility. Some I know just put epoxy in the crack as a filler. But it will not flex with the movement of the wood.


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## yaxley

> I rarely fill deep crack in sticks.


 Same with me and I've just saturated the crevice with tung oil to stabilize the stress of any moisture changes.

I'm leery of filling the cracks because it could induce further stress. Hence my questions for a better idea.

Thanks.


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## rdemler

I've used copper and turquoise to fill cracks.The epoxy enamel resin when used without color additives is Chrystal clear and the crack will still have the rustic cracked look.


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## yaxley

> I've used copper and turquoise to fill cracks.


 What did you use a binder/adhesive?

I'm not familiar with the epoxy resin and will have to read up on it.


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## MJC4

I have never filled a crack that was deep enough to compromise the integrity of the stick. I have had small cracks appear in carvings of wood I have "harvested" from dead trees. These imperfections I filled with Elmer's carpenters glue which dries a light brown.


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## yaxley

> These imperfections I filled with Elmer's carpenters glue which dries a light brown.


For regular wood working I have mixed saw dust with Elmer's wood glue to fill small holes and cracks. Never did it on sticks though. I can certainly understand not wanting any cracks or checking with wood carving, and guess that is also the same thing for burning.


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## rdemler

I used super glue but epoxy resin will work the same. Here's a tutorial page on the stuff.

http://wellingtonboot.hubpages.com/hub/diy-resin-casting-instructions-jewelry-projects-craft-tutorials


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## yaxley

Nice link and answers most of my questions. Thanks.


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## CV3

There is always a chance of some checking or cracking on a stick. Using a well seasoned stick and a good finish will minimize the chances.


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## cobalt

Interesting to see different ideas and credit due to all those taking part taking part


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## Rad

I've used a lot of inlays -- mix them with epoxy! CAS has a great thread on here about epoxy!


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## Steve R.

Every single piece of Oak I had split something terrible. Mostly they end up in compost, as firewood or Sandra takes them over,


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## JJireh

Epoxy resin is what I use. Cracks, by nature, do decrease wood strength integrity. That said, some woods can have many cracks and still suffice as walking sticks and canes.

Example is a cane I have been fiddling with for a year or so. Maple, found in a lumber site pushed into the dirt. It had already cracked severly. I stress tested it on my 245 frame, tried to bend it over my knee, smacked it across a couple of oaks. Verticle strength is superb and would crack a skull or femur just fine without breaking.

The guy I am planning on giving it to is much smaller than my demur size  and he doesn't really need to use it, but I will alert him to the possibilities of future deterioration (although I doubt it will).


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## cobalt

Do you think that a shank thats damaged is worth this , wouldnt it be easyer just to get a decent shank?


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## yaxley

I've made many rustic sticks with similar cracks, JJireh. They were well dried in the desert and probably a reason for the cracks. Regardless, they came out very nice and not aware of any further cracking. I've even made some canes that were used for support and walking...again OK. I think the cracks actually add to the character of the stick, but I haven't done any with carving.


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## JJireh

cobalt said:


> Do you think that a shank thats damaged is worth this , wouldnt it be easyer just to get a decent shank?


Yes and yes. I have plenty of decent shanks too. But as yaxley says, there is definitly character...not beauty mind you, but definite character. we call it 'grit' 

The root ball on this thing is amazing not only in comfort but appearance. It has a 'story' if you will. Grizzled Elder Native American Chief carved into a grizzled scarred maple with gnarly root ball handle.


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## cobalt

This is something we wouldnt agree on

Personnaly i dont like this type of shank its weak .and dosnt fit in with the style of stickmaking i do, and people here wouldnt give it a second glance and would be supprised you did it

But its a different market

If its the style that goes well for you and you can sell them then its the direction you should go ifor it


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## yaxley

I haven't seen a problem with selling them worldwide, including England. However all my work is custom and I define in detail the sticks I make. However that is my niche and I'm sure there are plenty of people who would object to the cracks, knots, burls, etc. I can certainly see objections to carving on the "cracked/split" wood though.

So, yes we probably have different views.  No problem.


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## cobalt

Then you work apeals to that market and think you need a niche market today anyway there are so many stickmakers to do a certain style oftern pays

More oftern than not i usually see the adjustable stck that many people use , but a stick that is hand made usually attracts more attention and is a good conversation piece and its that that sells them


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## rdemler

I have to agree that the grain,knots,cracks,worm holes all add character to a stick.I do think the real beauty in wood is under the bark,or people would build oak and cherry dressers and paint them brown.Yuk...I'm definitely new to this but how many times does anyone really exert enough pressure on a stick to cause it to break.I was under the impression they were more of a balance aide and for poking stuff you really aren't sure you wanna touch.But that's just my opinion.......


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## yaxley

> I have to agree that the grain,knots,cracks,worm holes all add character to a stick.


 Forgot to mention the beetles that carve channels under the bark and other insect features. They tend (in my mind) to offer more life to a stick. Guess I'm saying the more unusual the stick, the better it appeals to me.

I'm not aware of any of my sticks breaking that are used as canes or walking aids. However I specially select them if they will be used that way. JMO


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## cobalt

Got to agree about painting stuff brown , i like to see thwe wood , and shanks are a walking aid and there is no need to put that much pressure on a shank to break it. I think its more likely to break if it has cracks in it .and isnt straight .You wouldnt see a ships mast made from wood thats mishapen or damaged and it has a lot of pressure on it .It has to give a little


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## JJireh

You guys get paid!?!?!  I do occaionally

It is for sure "weaker" wood than its original singular mass would have been, but I assure you it is not weak and will not break.

I do enjoy the straight pretty staves of UK. They are definitely finely crafted, but they do begin to look very similar and very few have character that seperates them from the others. I'm sure the ones that do are frowned upon as not conforming to 'beauty' standards.

Next time you go out for hazel, dig up a small one and keep the rootball attached, flip it over and play with that one. First wood spirit of Canterbury


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## cobalt

The character of the shanks is mainly in the colour of the bark on hazel., holly, chestnut ash it has a very wide range of pattterns and colours depending on where its grown and the weather during the seasons.The bark its self provides a natural protection for the shank and is very difficult to remove ..All that needs doing to it is to oil it ,hadly any are varnished theres just no need to.Shanks such as hawthorn and alike are used with the bark stripped.but generally speaking hazel provides most of the shanks.

Supprised there not used in the states as there grown in the north of the country and its a very hardy plant

If a shank is oiled regularly it should last a lifetime.As for the character its mostly in the topper, this could be rams /buffalo horn or carved all are very different .But most are done to a high standard

Very few of my sticks look the same and each carving is researched and scaled correctly depending on the species of wildfowl etc.

But if you handle and look at the horn ones you will see immediatly its of a high standard and there a pleasure to use Most ramblers who use them treat them with high regard. and dont consider them a disposable item

They do take more time to make from the drawing research and selection of the shank but thats part of the pleasure to me

Any shank that has any kind of defect would be discarded and considered being of poor qaullity .Normally these shanks would be seasoned for 2 years before being used.


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## JJireh

Sure I understand them and appreciate them and the work that goes into them. They are works of art...craft...both  I do understand taking pleasure in the process and apparent perfect lines and joints. I love them. I have even made a market stick or 2 and something I'd call a crook though it is far below what would be standard...well they all would be far below standard 

Maybe it's the American in me that fights that sterile conformation to a particular specification, or my nature in general. I want something that is unique, one of a kind. Not a cookie cutter of what the next 3 guys down the lane have, just a differing degree. Fight Cobalt! Break open the UK, make a gnarly crooked cane 

We do have Hazel and hawthorn here. In fact I am growing some Hawthorne for sticks. I think it's like tea. We have it, we just don't think of it the same HA! (We being the US, I actually love and appreciate good tea as well. A nice deep black with a little milk)


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