# Eagle topper under construction



## CV3 (Jan 30, 2014)

Basswood eagle topper under construction.


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## MJC4 (Mar 6, 2014)

As always good looking piece CV3.

Any ideas on what type of staff yet?


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## CV3 (Jan 30, 2014)

MJC4 said:


> As always good looking piece CV3.
> 
> Any ideas on what type of staff yet?


Yes it will go on a basswood cane shaft.


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## cobalt (Nov 14, 2013)

good looking eagle looks very well proportoned

you must have got some good referance material.

Good pics are always difficult to come by always try to get side view and front and where possible the top view

good to see work in progress

good to see you back on line


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## CV3 (Jan 30, 2014)

cobalt said:


> good looking eagle looks very well proportoned
> you must have got some good referance material.
> good to see work in progress


This is the best reference books I have found of hawks and eagles cobalt. Wonderful pictures from every angle you could want and drawings. Here is an example. ( Not a cheep book but worth the investment. I have used it many times.


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## cobalt (Nov 14, 2013)

Thats interesting will look it up always on the look out for good ref. books.

Sounds as though it will cover a large variety of birds or is it limited to american species

Have a fancy to do a vulture wonder if it come into the book


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## CV3 (Jan 30, 2014)

cobalt said:


> Thats interesting will look it up always on the look out for good ref. books.
> Sounds as though it will cover a large variety of birds or is it limited to american species
> Have a fancy to do a vulture wonder if it come into the book


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## CV3 (Jan 30, 2014)

A little more done yesterday and today. Textured head because I think it give a good grip. I think I need to do some work on the beak. It is a bit long and needs more curve at the end.


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## MJC4 (Mar 6, 2014)

I am really intrigued by your attachment of topper to staff. Is the knurled piece between the head and shaft part of the topper or the staff? Or is it an entirely separate piece? I have been using the brass ferrules I get from Treeline or wrapping the joint with a suede leather lacing but I am always looking for other options and I really like the look of the knurled piece..


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## CV3 (Jan 30, 2014)

MJC4 said:


> I am really intrigued by your attachment of topper to staff. Is the knurled piece between the head and shaft part of the topper or the staff? Or is it an entirely separate piece? I have been using the brass ferrules I get from Treeline or wrapping the joint with a suede leather lacing but I am always looking for other options and I really like the look of the knurled piece..


If you look about 3/4 above the partly carve rope you will see there is a change in color of the wood. That is where splice is between the topper and shaft is. Sense I will paint the head It will not be seen. I often use the splice line as a transition point to some kind of textering or decortive carving. This is a example making its own ferrule.


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## rdemler (Jun 11, 2014)

Nice work,I don't think I'll ever have that kind of talent.And for reference pics the taxidermy industry has many books with detail pics from all angles.


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## cobalt (Nov 14, 2013)

Its comig along nicely

interested to see how you texture it before painting

The rope transition looking good

i iether use buffalo or horn spacers sometimes either buffalo collar or silver nickel. ,but the contrasting colours between the shank and the topper makes a good job draws the image out well and enhahces it nicely


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## cobalt (Nov 14, 2013)

Thanks for the info on the book,but cant find it yet tried amazon ,no joy but will search other sites

heres a couple of books you may be interested in both on carving wild fowl decorstive decoys ,very good templates. Its these that got me into carving toppers.and there where pretty cheap

There very good value for money,there 21 templates in the books ,both femal and male speices of wildfowl.Theres no carving guidlines just the templates ,but there is hints and tips on how to paint them which would be pretty good if you use that brand of paints.I cant get them here and they dont work on the brand i uas the colours dont mix as the book says, so stick to my own pallete.

book1


























book2


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## cobalt (Nov 14, 2013)

Carving a topper on some shanks can be difficult to get the balance right between the topper and the shank, the transition into the shank can often be difficult ,paricularly on some birds ,such as birds of prey.

I tend to favour birds with longer necks such as wild fowl or any thing that has a neck on it it balances up well to the shank,so the rope collar works well and allows much better transition than say a nickel silver collar as it allows a larger topper to be carved giving a better flow into the shank.For the eagle head i have carved seems a tad clumsy on the thickness on my shanks as i have cut the neck down to meet with the shank, so something on this line may help to draw the bird onto the shank and look better and would allow a better balance

Some pieces seem stiff and rigid and never seem to flow into the shank they oftern look to be just stuck on so to get the balance between the topper and the shank plays a important part in the looks as many a decent piece is ruined by the transition

Other birds such as a lot of english breeds are small such as the robin chaffinch etc, allow the whole bird to be carved to look as though its perched on the shank and looks attarctive and prove to be popular here, the example of the kingfisher(in my gallery) seems to work well giving allowing the look of perchingon the shank.I am never sure whether or not to paint it in the bright colours of the kingfisher rather then the burning i have done on it.

The humming birds look a nice subject to carve but the long thin beaks seem to delicate for the pole to be pratical.but always searching for ideas

Iam also looking at woodpeckers trying to work out if i colul carve one and mount it on the side of the shank to give a more natural look for the bird, this of course would make the shank taller if mounted at near tthe top ,then how to finish the top of the shank of of is another probelm?

but keep the pics coming its looking good


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## cobalt (Nov 14, 2013)

I may have a go at your type of transition and particularly like the walking canes idea ,it should work well on a hiking pole ,just need a subject to try it on


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## CV3 (Jan 30, 2014)

This is a walnut cane Handle is stained. The transition point from cane handle to shaft is at the bottom of the fish scales not the dark handle.


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## cobalt (Nov 14, 2013)

Nicley textured.you work has a nice flow from the handle down to the shank and is always a good sign of good design and artistic talent tied to craftmanship

There are some pretty good ideas on the site from functional design/ideas to the more radical like using pipes for the shank( something i would never had thought of) and most people contribute ideas and pass on information such as the cabbage stick.its a pity that more visitors dont join the site as the visitors numbers seem to get bigger

Tempted to carve into the shank of my hiking poles .I think carving into the natural bark would provide good contrast.Had a go with some offcuts ,but now i have some 3mm burrs i will try some nordic art down the shank.mayby fit the vikings head to it

This site brings so many different ideas to mind its a source of inspration and frustration..its oftern a choice of what i want to do and what i have time to do? or what the wife wants me to do.


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## cobalt (Nov 14, 2013)

hows the eagle coming on?


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## CV3 (Jan 30, 2014)

cobalt said:


> hows the eagle coming on?


Thanks for asking cobalt. I have had a couple of paying customers show up the last week had to move the eagle and the cedar stick on the back burner. Hope to get back to them next week. I have a diamond willow/hame handled and a hickory/ hames handle canes to do.


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## MJC4 (Mar 6, 2014)

Cash customers, awesome sounds like more tools are in the near future!


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## cobalt (Nov 14, 2013)

The customer must come 1st.

but you will enjoy doing them and its a bonus to get paid to do what you enjoy


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## CV3 (Jan 30, 2014)

Had a break with some other projects drying. so worked a bit on the head today. I was not happy with the basic shape. It does not take much to change things. I shorten the beak about a 1/2 " and did some shaping around the eye area. I am happier with the face.


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## cobalt (Nov 14, 2013)

see you also taken some of the top of its head ,it looked good before its really coming on.

Like the effect the gouges have made in the wood it may serve as feathers/, will have to try it myself

But the devil is in the detail nice one, looking forward to seeing how you finish it


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## CV3 (Jan 30, 2014)

Yes, the texturing works well for feathers and it makes for a better grip when in use. I am thinking about the finish for the whole stick, I am an old Marine and want to use their colors. This will be going to some Vet. The head will be white and the rope ring or collar gold. The pants on a Marine dress uniform are blue with a red strip. I may do dark blue with red stripes on either side for the shaft. The eyes area is the question. sense I did them the way I did I am not sure how to finish them. But it will come to me. The beak area I will try to make that as near to an eagles color as I can. It is a fun project.


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## MJC4 (Mar 6, 2014)

I too liked it before, but I gotta say the beak does look better now. I really like that rope ring. It is an awesome way to integrate the top to the staff, makes the piece appear seamless.


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## Rad (Feb 19, 2013)

Looking really nice! The finish part is always the scariest part -- hard to change that if you make a mistake!


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## CV3 (Jan 30, 2014)

Got a little bit more done today. Cleaned up the rope collar some and added what I call a basket texture using a 1/8th " #11 vainer.


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## cobalt (Nov 14, 2013)

The basket effect adds to it ,.The rope collar looks trim and neat its all buiding uo to the finish which i am looking forward to seeing wondering how your going to add the marines colours to it and finish the shank .the eyes look pretty good and do like the textured effect it works real well .keep the pics coming


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## CV3 (Jan 30, 2014)

cobalt said:


> The basket effect adds to it ,.The rope collar looks trim and neat its all buiding uo to the finish which i am looking forward to seeing wondering how your going to add the marines colours to it and finish the shank .the eyes look pretty good and do like the textured effect it works real well .keep the pics coming


The colors in Marine Dress-blues I plan to use are white, dark blue, red, and gold buttons. My thinking right now is that I will have a white head, gold rope collar and dark blue in the basket textuard area. With the red in the area around the eyes. Then finishing the shaft with tung oil. That will bring out the grain and darkin the shaft. Then 2 coats of spar varnish on the whole cane. Eyes and beak natural colors.


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## MJC4 (Mar 6, 2014)

CV3 you are always coming up with another added twist ( no pun intended ) that surprises. The basket texturing is a neat addition.

As Siskel and Ebert used to say :thumbsu: :thumbsu:.


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## cobalt (Nov 14, 2013)

What do you prime the carving with 1st gouache? Then undercoat then topcoat?

I use enamels on the puppets as they take a hammering but find there difficult to mix unlike acrylic tend to waste more .and they take longer to paint due to the drying time..but they are more durable i think.

Find the acrylics easyer to use and mix and cheaper, but you do end up with about 5 -6 coats of paint from gouache to the varnish finish


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## cobalt (Nov 14, 2013)

any progress on the eagle ,to busy with the holiday weekend eh?


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## CV3 (Jan 30, 2014)

cobalt said:


> What do you prime the carving with 1st gouache? Then undercoat then topcoat?
> I use enamels on the puppets as they take a hammering but find there difficult to mix unlike acrylic tend to waste more .and they take longer to paint due to the drying time..but they are more durable i think.
> Find the acrylics easyer to use and mix and cheaper, but you do end up with about 5 -6 coats of paint from gouache to the varnish finish


When I finish carving I will use acrylic paint primer or spar varnished thinned 50% as a sealer for the area to be painted. I did not get to do any work over the holiday. Be ill with bad sinus infection. Today is the first day i have been able to do much and thats been caching up on the wife's list of honey do's .


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## cobalt (Nov 14, 2013)

Not sure what spar varnish is ?is it a brand?


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## CV3 (Jan 30, 2014)

It is a exterior finish used on boats and doors, outdoor projects. It is resistant to water, sun and temperature changes. But I called it varnish what I use is Midwax Spar Urethane. I use it or a marine tung oil on all my sticks and canes. There is a spar varnish which is also a exterior finish. When I use the spar urethane I thin the first Two coats 50%. The urethane will soak deeper in to the wood thinned. I do not thin the third or fourth coats.


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## CV3 (Jan 30, 2014)

Had a little time to work on the eagle today. Using my wood burner I high lighted some areas the burn lines will not be as noticeable when it is painted they also seal and help prevent bleed over of colors. I applied a coat of Urethane ,thinned 50% with mineral spirits, to the area I plan to paint. It soaks in to the raw wood and still give leaves good surface for paint. I think (at this time) I will leave the shaft and beak natural.


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## cobalt (Nov 14, 2013)

Been looking forward to seeing the finish on this project ,It looks crisp and clean ,but you cant rush it. Its coming along a treat

I made the mistake of rushing the fox and annoyed at myself as the finish is poor, but yet to clean its eyes and varnish it. So far dissapionted with colour and finish


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## CV3 (Jan 30, 2014)

Had some time to start paint today. The iris will be a pale yellow or gold and a dark pupils. The head and neck white. The rope collar will be gold and textured area below the rope a navy blue. Hope to finish paint this week.


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## CV3 (Jan 30, 2014)

Well my plan for the afternoon was rained out so I got the fist coat done. I am not sure I am happy with the area were the red meets the beak. I am thinking it may need a thin line of white just in front of the red. The follow up coats of spar urethane will darken the beak and the shaft. I will work on the iris of the eyes next.


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## cobalt (Nov 14, 2013)

Been following your bird with interest,good to see it in stages ,makes interesting topic.

I can see where your coming from with the white between the eyes and the beak, but i think the piece works well as it is .Its a strong symbol and mayby like me you are to self critical.The piece works very well and thats the important factor.

A white line between the head and the beak will highlight the eyes , but whichever way you choose to go its still a good piece of work

The iris when painted will make a huge difference to it.

Nice one


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## CV3 (Jan 30, 2014)

Well I am done excepted for last coat of urethane on the head and beak and the marine tung oil on the shaft.
The tung oil will darken the shaft some. I will look at it a few more days. Beak is still to long and should more rounded end down to the point of the beak. It is more noticeable with the paint on. 
Im not sure it doesn't look more like a turkey.


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## cobalt (Nov 14, 2013)

lol a turkey

no it dosnt look like a turkey and dont think the beak is to long

its a good job

post the pics of the finished item including the shank

mark the job as A1 and not as my teacher said "could do better"


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## MJC4 (Mar 6, 2014)

Definitely not a turkey CV3. As the carver/artist we are the first and last critic of our own work. Sometimes we are the harshest of critics.

I think its a great looking piece and I for one would be proud to walk with it.


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## CV3 (Jan 30, 2014)

It is amazing to me how you can make a little change and make a big difference. I was just not happy and spent a day thinking about it looked at some pictures and decided to make the pupils larger. \I think imade a big improvement in the look.


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## cobalt (Nov 14, 2013)

It was good anyway ,but it does help the overall look.

Its good to walk away from a finished item satisfied with the finished result , and you should be satisfied , i would be


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## MJC4 (Mar 6, 2014)

It's a small tweak but it does make a big difference. :thumbsu: After I looked at pics of eagles on the net the pupils are quite large.

I really need more practice carving eyes. The beads I have been using are ok but the detail that can be accomplished by carving them is by far a big improvement.


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## cobalt (Nov 14, 2013)

Will it be flying of to a new home?


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## CV3 (Jan 30, 2014)

cobalt said:


> Will it be flying of to a new home?


In a week or so. I will send it to the Texas Woodcarvers Guild. They have a program called "Canes For Vets". They take custom made canes to the big military rehab hospital in San Antonio Texas. And the canes are given to military veterans.


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## cobalt (Nov 14, 2013)

Yes i have heard of it , its a 1st class idea and a 1st class stick .do you ever find out who it goes to ?


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## CV3 (Jan 30, 2014)

No. This time I an going to send a card along with it in hopes the person who gets it will let me know.


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## cobalt (Nov 14, 2013)

It would be good to know ,after all you have given a fair amount of work into it..But most of all it would be good to know that someone would use it and that it has found the right nesting site


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